FERRÉ Gianfranco (Designer)

The dramatic play on proportions of this white taffeta shirt _ exaggerated sleeves and cuffs and carefully structured corset _ link fashion with Gianfranco Ferré's training as an architect. "I use the same approach to clothes as I did when I designed buildings", he says. "It is basic geometry: you take a flat form and revolve it in space". Ferré originally worked as a jewellery and accessories designer, before launching a ready-to-wear label in Milan in 1978. In 1989 he was appointed artistic director at Christian Dior; his first collection was inspired by Cecil Beaton's black-and-white costumes for My Fair Lady (1964), preferring a neutral palette with dashes of his signature bright red. A perfectionist, his technical skill is shown in his precision tailoring, with a love of proportion-play revealed in his constant reinvention of the white shirt, worn with jodhpurs and evening skirts, but under Ferré's direction it is always glamorized. 

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