Reading the faces of this salon audience, it is possible to gauge the breadth of reaction that greeted Christian Dior's first collection, which was dubbed the "New Look" after this show by Carmel Snow, editor of Harper's Bazaar. As they gaze at an hourglass jacket of cream tussore over a skirt constructed from a decadent yardage of black wool, the audience registers shock, disapproval and deep yearning. At a time of postwar austerity, the New Look tempted women back into the nostalgic femininity of corsets and, most controversially, flowing skirts that would use to fifty yards of material. Dior, who had wanted to be an architect but turned to fashion, working for Piguet, Lelong and Balmain, said that it was one of the happiest moments of his life, "I created flower women with gentle shoulders and generous bosoms, with tiny waists like stems and skirts belling out like petals".
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