CAPASA Ennio (Costume National) (Designer)

Described as a "mix of couture and the street", Ennio Capasa's dress reveals the shoulders without adding too much details. His fabrics highlight the curves of the body. Capasa's work is dictated by material. "I always start designing a collection from the fabrics", he says. "I love the interplay between matt and shine. The fabrics are where you really experiment in fashion". He trained with Yohji Yamamoto in Japan in the early 1980s, where the practice was to pare details away from a design and to take inspiration from traditional cutting techniques. On his return to Milan in 1987, Capasa started his own label, Costume National. It combines his perception of Japanese purism with a sexier, more close-fitting silhouette influenced by street fashion - a 1990s imperative epitomized by Helmut Lang and Ann Demeulemeester. 

Also look up for Demeulemeester, Lang, Prada, Y. Yamamoto