Thom Browne has made models walk on stilts, don astronaut suits and glide across an ice rink. For his autumn/winter 2011 collection, male models seated around an exaggerated banquet table in a gilded salon picked at the elaborate dishes in front of them, intermittently rising to lap the table at a geriatric pace. As always, the clothes were a mix of the commercially viable and the outright outré: knitted wigs and crested skirts, corduroy blazers and John Lennon-style sunglasses. Despite his theatrical flair, since 2001 Browne has made a name for himself with a single, spotless silhouette: a shrunken grey flannel suit, accessorized with chunky black shoes and a clipped skinny tie. He is credited with reintroducing classicism to menswear, reimagining preppy tradition with a twist. Now also producing womenswear and eyewear lines, Browne won CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year in 2006.
Also look up for Van Beirendonck, Lauren, Pugh, Simons
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